Straw Wine: Poetry In A Bottle
One Sip At A Time
Straw wine is otherwise known as Raisin Wine. It is made from grapes that have been dried off the vines to concentrate the juice. Selected bunches of ripe grapes after a careful hand harvest are laid out on mats in full sun under the classic technique in the making of Straw Wine.
From aperitifs to desserts, there are many foods that you can eat with straw wine. It is tastefully served with foie gras and fruit purées like apricots, figs or grapes or exquisitely served with poultry dishes like duck, pigeon, or quail containing fruit. Straw wine is splendid with blue-veined cheese and Roquefort and establishes a perfect finale with chocolate and dried fruit desserts.
The main difference between straw wine and ice wine is the amount of sugars retained in the grapes. It is achieved differently in both varieties. Straw wine requires some extra help, while ice wine thanks the weather to gain its’ sweetness. Moreover, ice wine is typically made from botrytis-affected late-harvest grapes.
Straw wine on the other hand is made from normal hand-harvested grapes that are subsequently dried on straw mats. Since grapes are no longer on vines, the natural sugar concentrates as the fruit dries. Meanwhile, the grapes also retain the acidity and wines are able to maintain balance as they develop flavor.
Nevertheless, several types of wines are made this way but not all of them are sweet. Nor are they known as straw wine. Here is a breakdown of some of the types of straw-dried wines as you learn what to expect from a true straw wine.
Toast the Host With the Most
White wine grapes are placed on straw mats for about 60 to 90 days to make straw wine. In what is now known as Austria, ancient Greek farmers as per record had coined the term ‘Strohwein’ for Straw Wine. This practice perhaps gained popularity due to the resulting high levels of sugar. It also made the wine easier to preserve. Moreover, drinkers from those eras also seem to have enjoyed the flavor.
As opposed to the late-harvest ice wine where you leave the grapes to develop on the vine, straw wine is made from grapes that are dried off of the vine, South African winemakers believe that this halts the ripening process as the grapes are cut off the vine. And you are no longer losing the acidity as the grapes become sweeter. In the process, you are concentrating both, sugar and acidity.
The straw wine process also prevents rot as it allows air to travel around the grapes. The fruit is also cleaner as it is placed in a field or barn under the sun. This is how the grapes are traditionally dried. However, forgetting that straw helps ventilation, many wineries nowadays are found to be using straw-lined plastic or wooden racks that are easier to sanitize. Eventually, the fruit starts to mold first as the moisture gets trapped at the bottom.
Nowadays, straw wine is made in Austria, France, Greece, Italy, New Zealand, and the United States.
Grapes Used in Straw Wine
Wineries around the globe enjoy the flexibility of choosing the grape type in the making of straw wine. They usually begin with Sauvignon Blanc as it already has a cordial acidity profile. Moreover, this aspect is quite essential when you are producing any dessert wine as you need to have friendly brightness to balance with the sweetness of the wine. It is therefore a good start that the white variety Sauvignon Blanc has good acidity.
Nevertheless, some South African wineries choose to begin with Chenin Blanc. This grape variety has a thicker skin and which tends to match the environment down there. Chenin Blanc also effectively maintains the highest natural acidity levels.
Austrian winemakers however choose to go with Muscat or Zweigelt, while the French usually go with Chardonnay, Poulsard, or Savagnin. These grape varieties are abundantly grown in Jura, Marsanne in the Northern Rhône. Riesling is the favorite in Alsace.
Flavors of Straw Wine
It is important to consider the sun while making straw wine. It has a warmer flavor and may be slightly caramelized, unlike the glacial qualities of ice wine. Straw wine is more likely to resemble orange marmalade rather than fresh oranges. Moreover, straw wines should not have dried fruit flavors. This aspect is usually associated with grapes that are left on the vine for an extended period of time.
There are some lovely wines as well when you think of late-harvest Riesling. However, you can always detect a raisin flavor in them. On the other side, you get the vibrant concentration of the fruit minus the dried prune or raisin quality with straw wine.
Straw wines are notably sweet. Especially the ones made at Mullineux & Leeu. They can range between 280 to 700 grams per liter of residual sugar. Nevertheless, they contain plenty of acidity to balance the flavor.
The Making and Discovery of Straw Wine
Beyond its authentic name and golden color, there are several arguments for straw wine to be among the most prestigious wines in France. Straw wine has been a bit lucky from the start. Bunch by bunch, from the initial stage, the winemaker selects the most appealing grapes that go into the making.
A high concentration of sugar, alcohol, and tertiary aromas like candied fruit, caramel, and honey are required to make a good quality of wine. Passerillage is a very special technique winemakers have identified.
This approach consists of dehydrating the grapes. As a result, the winemaker exposes the grapes to the sun on a bed of straw outdoors in a dry place.
The fruit dehydrates and achieves a tan after spending a few afternoons in the sun. Even people would cry out for some water to get going after dehydration in such conditions.
Traditionally, the passerillage process takes place on beds of straw. Hence the name where the grapes are left open under the sun for a minimum of six weeks. This process can also last up to 5 months.
Nowadays, the passerillage process is commonly carried out on wooden, wicker, plastic racks, or metal trellis. They are protected from the humid atmosphere as well.
The wine ferments for about three years after pressing. With a minimum of 18 months at least in wooden barrels. Nevertheless, it is well worth the straw wine we obtain at the end.
With the OSS 117 reference – “Larmina, the game is worth the candle!” The resulting wine with unique aromas attracts curiosity and covetousness from people all over the world.
The pomp straw wines create is because they are excellent for laying down. The alcohol and high sugar content they maintain is ideal for storage. It allows them to last for 50 years at least in the bottle.
Don’t you think that ‘A bottle of Straw Wine’ can be a wonderful birthday gift,’ that you can open on your 50th birthday?
Controlled Production of Straw Wine
The size of the grapefruit shrinks at breakneck speed when it is deprived of its water. The aromas and sweetness it takes up eventually float all around straw wine. It takes up space for the greatest pleasure of our palates.
Imagine 100 kg of grapes yielding only 18-25 liters of must! You never count when you love. However, you don’t get fooled with straw wine as the appellation is controlled.
Only three AOPs, (protected designations of origin), or AOCs, (controlled designations of origin) in the Jura have the right to hear the traditional and prestigious mention of straw wine (Arbois, Etoile, and Côtes du Jura). The AOC Hermitage in the Rhône Valley also has the privilege to offer straw wine.
The yield for designation is set at 20 hl per hectare. But no limit to devotion and know-how is imposed. This inherently allows the winemaker to transmit his affection through this divine beverage.
The grape varieties that are utilized in the making of straw wine are also controlled. Only a blend of Chardonnay, Poulsard, Savagnin, and Trousseau among the flagship varieties of Jura are authorized. You will have to other wines like Côtes du Jura in case you would like to taste good Pinot noir from this region. Moreover, the Marsanne and Roussanne grape varieties are also authorized by Rhône Valley for the production of straw wine.
The container also holds the particularity of straw wine. The legendary half-bottles of Jura only contain 37.5 cl of straw wine. And thank the golden color of the beverage, that you would feel like you were holding a gold ingot in your palm.
Tasting Straw Wine
Talking of the golden rules about food and wine pairings, including favorite recipes and tasting tips, straw wine is a sweet and syrupy beverage that goes perfectly well with cheese, chocolate, foie gras, and fruity desserts. Moreover, there is an exhaustive list of the best accompaniments for starters, main courses, and desserts that enhance the pleasures of consuming straw wine. We suggest you follow a good cookbook to relish a gourmet dessert or Pavlova with pears and dried flowers that pair extremely well with a good straw wine.
Vin de Paille is Your Valentine
Vin de Paille is no longer a wine made from straw. But Vin de Paille in the past was a wine made from grapes that were laid out on straw racks and subsequently left to dry under the sun.
Vin de Paille is also known as l’Or du Jura. This surprising product is made in accordance with a unique technique. Madyasara takes you to the heart of the Jura vineyards to rediscover all the secrets that go into the making of this exceptional wine.
What is so extraordinary about Vin de Paille?
Vin de Paille is the kind of straw wine that results from ancestral understanding and meticulous planning. It requires a unique viticulture method along with a dedicated aging process. This involves that the grape-pickers selectively pick the finest bunches during harvest time. The berries are then dried using a technique known as ‘Passerillage’ in viticulture.
The Passerillage technique effectively allows the grapes to lose water content and concentrate sugars. These grapes during the process are exposed to the sun for at least 6 weeks. They may be laid out on a bed of straw or hung up to keep up with the tradition. Bunches of grapes sometimes are also naturally left on the vine. However, the vines are stripped of leaves to facilitate sun exposure on the fruit. This goes on until the grapes are ideally dehydrated.
The grapes are considered perfectly concentrated only when they turn golden brown. They are then pressed and the juice is left to ferment. It is only the aging process that the liquid remains to undergo now. The outcome of these efforts is the prominently recognized Vin de Paille straw wine.
The liquid is then stored in barrels for 3 years. The vigners have to be extremely patient during the process. It simply takes time before they can unveil this peerless sweet wine.
Thanks to its limited production in 3 appellations and a singular aromatic profile characterized by candied fruit, dried fruit, ripe fruit, and stewed fruit; Vin de Paille is an unprecedented wine that undergoes a unique maturing process in France.
Vin de Paille is an Exceptional Produce
Vin de Paille is considered to be the ‘Gold of the Jura’. It is rather a rare product which only the Arbois, Côtes du Jura, and L’Etoile appellations have the right to produce and mention “Vin de Paille” on the bottles.
This wine can only be made from bunches of Chardonnay, Poulsard, Savagnin, or Trousseau grape varieties. Vin de Paille winemakers are then free to add their unique touch. Each blend is exclusive as such and varies according to the choice of dosage.
Making Vin de Paille is a long and painstaking process in the vineyard and during the maturation procedure as well. Moreover, the majority of these actions are carried out by hand.
Production of Vin de Paille requires a great deal of attention. It is a fantastic wine that goes great on the palate. You would love to appreciate the unique aromas of candied fruit since the bottle contains only 37.5 cl of wine.
What does Vin de Paille taste like?
Vin de Paille owes the beautiful golden-amber color of wine to its unique production and aging process. Quite often its color is confused with yellow wine.
Vin de Paille on the nose reveals intense notes of candied fruit and ripe, or stewed fruits like figs, pear, and quince. You can also detect aromas of dried fruit like walnuts alongside floral notes of hawthorn. Quite a few other wines are also found to reveal notes of sweet oriental spices like cinnamon, curry, or nutmeg. This palette of aromas generally continues on the palate. It is mostly full-bodied round, and well-structured.
Vin de Paille is noteworthy for its highly expressive aromatic lineation. You can find notes of baked apples, dates, figs, and even prunes sometimes. Along with aromas of caramel, honey, and roasted dried fruit.
The Vin de Paille structure is very buttery but always crafted with great competence. In fact, this alcoholic wine has an appealing creamy finish. Moreover, the aromatic intensity of this straw wine makes a lasting impression.
Food and Wine Pairing with Vin de Paille
Vin de Paille is a complex straw wine that can accompany your journey from aperitif to dessert. It goes wonderfully well with cheeses, foie gras from its native region, and even blue cheeses as well. It can also be paired with a recipe for poultry with fruit as the main course. Or simply serve Vin de Paille with chocolate, citrus desserts, or dried fruits.
Recipes with Vin de Paille
Relish the flavors of the Jura from glass to plate. Take these few ideas for recipes that you can savor along with your Vin de Paille.
- Capon With Vin de Paille
It is a wonderful idea to open a bottle of Vin de Paille for the festive season or to serve a capon for your guests. Nevertheless, the two can go hand in hand.
Here is how you can make your capon with Vin de Paille. Start cutting up your capon the day before you plan the event. And remember to tie the carcass and fins together.
Brown the pre-cut pieces along with a little salted butter in a cast-iron casserole dish until the capon’s skin begins to tighten. And make sure that you are able to smell and relish the delicious aromas emanating from the kitchen.
The most important thing in the cooking process is to allow the fat to melt. And then add four finely chopped shallots when the pieces have browned. Then leave it to melt, and season.
It is now time for the big meeting. Pour in the bottle of Vin de Paille and cover. Then cook over a low heat for about an hour. Leave the capon to cool down when it is cooked and preserve the dish over the night.
You will find that much of the fat has risen by the next day. You can then remove it and reserve it in a sauté pan.
A few chestnuts to accompany your capon is a delicious idea. You can also sauté them in the reserved fat.
You can then remove the pieces of capon and discard the carcass when done. After which you can reduce the sauce and crush a few chestnuts to bind the sauce. Remember to season the outcome.
Subsequently, return the capon pieces to the pan and reheat them over low fire. Start rinsing the morels at the same time and add them to a saucepan with a little cream and sauce. Maintain the heat throughout.
Now comes the time to taste what you have eagerly been waiting for. Be generous with the pieces of capon. A few chestnuts and a good topping with morel sauce can be a worthy treat.
- Onion Soup and Old Comté Cheese with Vin de Paille
The famous onion soup recipe with Vin de Paille is perfect for warming up by the fire.
You start by peeling and slicing a yellow onion, a red onion, and a few spring onions as well. Then you dunk them into a sauté pan along with a little butter and sauté until it turns into a golden color.
Add a bottle of straw wine and reduce the flame when done. Then add about 2 bottles of water and onion soup. Cook the mix for 30 minutes at least.
Toast a slice of bread in the meantime and place a slice of Comté cheese to crown.
Place the onions in a bowl at the end and top it with an egg yolk. Pour the mix into the stock and enjoy.
What is the difference between Vin de Paille and Vin Jaune?
Both are white wines and often cause confusion. Vin Jaune is not Vin de Paille as the latter takes much less time to vinify. Vin Jaune must be aged for at least 6 years and 3 months in oak barrels to qualify. Moreover, unlike Vin de Paille, Vin Jaune is required to be made from Savagnin grapes variety only.
What is a Vin de Paille press?
According to the traditional Jura vineyard viticulture, the Pressée du Vin de Paille is a wine festival. This is held in honor of the golden nectar from the season. It takes place in the village of Arlay every year during the Saint-Vincent celebrations. This according to legend is the historic birthplace in the middle ages of Vin de Paille.
Which Is The Best Straw Wine?
Confused as to which bottle of straw wine to choose? Madyasara will help you make the right choice. However, we can only advise you to choose a wine profile that suits your tastes.
You may go for a Vin de Paille with a higher dosage of Savagnin in the blend in case you prefer the oxidative side. But if you prefer fresh wines, choose the one with good acidity. This will counterbalance the sweetness of the nectar.
In any case, be assured that winemakers in Jura put their entire heart and soul into producing some of the very best cuvées. Consider Domaine de Sainte Marie. Straw wine here is the source of all attention. The grapes here are pressed only after 4 to 6 months of drying on racks. The outcome results in an amber-colored wine. This straw wine is smooth and sweet, along with an excellent aromatic expression. Moreover, there are aromas of dried apricots and currants as well.
The entire Jura region is well-known for its rich and exceptional wines. You can also choose to go with other Jura cuvées. They are just as delicious.
De Trafford Straw Wine
This is the first of its kind of straw wine in South Africa. It is inspired by the great Vin de Paille of the Rhone Valley. Vin de Paille was first produced in 1997 in Jura.
De Trafford exclusively uses Chenin Blanc. The grapes are picked at optimum ripeness and laid out to dry up on racks under the shade of the oak trees located below the winery.
The drying process usually takes about 3 weeks. The sugars concentrate during this time along with flavor and acidity that provide the requisite balance. However, pressing and extracting the liquid from the shriveled berries is back-breaking. This work is carried out in a traditional basket press.
The making of De Trafford straw wine is usually followed by a year-long fermentation process due to the concentrated nature of the liquid. The produce is normally bottled after about 2 years in barrels. This results in an intensely sweet yet uncloying wine.
